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Designing for Durability: What Makes a Seam Last in Technical Textiles

In industrial textile manufacturing, failure isn’t just inconvenient—it can be costly. Whether it’s an awning exposed to UV and rain, a filter under mechanical pressure, or a transport cover handling daily wear and tear, the quality and durability of the seam play a critical role in overall product performance.

At Marjanović Sewing Systems, we don’t just build machines—we help our clients engineer reliability. Here's what really makes a seam last when working with technical textiles.


1. It Starts with the Right Stitch

The type of stitch you use can make or break a product—literally.

Different stitches distribute stress in different ways. For example:

  • Overlock stitches are excellent for binding edges, especially in flexible materials.

  • Flatlock seams minimize bulk, ideal for interiors or close-contact surfaces.

  • Lockstitch offers strong structural integrity and is preferred when longevity under stress is required.

  • Chainstitch, while fast and flexible, can unravel completely if broken—risky for critical seams.

When setting up a project, we choose stitch types not only for strength, but also for how they behave during use and over time.



credit: ''Joining High Thickness Materials by Sewing-first Modelling Steps of the Stitched Place'' Kyosev Y,  Kühn T
credit: ''Joining High Thickness Materials by Sewing-first Modelling Steps of the Stitched Place'' Kyosev Y, Kühn T

2. Thread Is Not Just Thread

In technical textiles, thread choice is just as important as fabric selection.

A few key variables:

  • Polyester threads are ideal for outdoor use due to their UV and moisture resistance.

  • Bonded nylon is strong and flexible but can degrade faster under sunlight.

  • PTFE or Kevlar threads are extreme-performance materials used in filters or high-temperature environments.

  • Anti-wicking finishes are essential in seams exposed to rain or humidity.

Many seam failures can be traced back to the wrong thread—either too weak, too stiff, or chemically incompatible with the material.


Multifilament thread constructions: linear construction, textured by the false twist technique and airblown textured credit: A&E Gütermann
Multifilament thread constructions: linear construction, textured by the false twist technique and airblown textured credit: A&E Gütermann

3. Match the Needle to the Material

Technical textiles come with their own set of challenges—PVC coatings, layered composites, mesh fabrics, etc. If the wrong needle is used, microscopic damage can compromise seam strength before the product even leaves production.

Some examples:

  • Ballpoint needles are suitable for mesh or knitted industrial fabrics.

  • Cutting or wedge-point needles are needed for leather or heavy vinyl.

  • Round point needles are common for woven technical textiles.

Our team works with clients to choose the right combination of needle type and thread to ensure clean penetration without structural damage.

Different cases of errors due to wrong needle choice (width, tip point, material)                                                credit: A&E Gütermann
Different cases of errors due to wrong needle choice (width, tip point, material) credit: A&E Gütermann

4. Fine-Tuning Machine Settings

Even with the right materials, poor machine setup will ruin a seam.

We routinely adjust and optimize:

  • Thread tension to avoid puckering or thread breakage

  • Knife position and width for precise edge trimming

  • Presser foot pressure to ensure uniform fabric feed

  • Differential feed settings to handle stretch or layered materials

This level of precision is where automated systems, like our CNC overlock machines, provide serious advantages. They enable consistent, repeatable seam quality—critical when scaling production.

Side-by-side comparison: seam from an improperly set machine vs. one dialed in for accuracy
Side-by-side comparison: seam from an improperly set machine vs. one dialed in for accuracy

5. Case Study: Longer-Lasting Outdoor Structures

A customer producing custom sunshades came to us with a problem: seams were weakening after just one season outdoors. After a full analysis, we recommended:

  • Switching to a UV-stable thread

  • Adjusting stitch length and overlock density

  • Modifying feed ratios to better handle tension zones

The result? Their product lifespan improved by more than 40%, warranty claims dropped, and customer satisfaction increased.


Conclusion

Seam durability in technical textiles is not a single choice—it’s the result of smart design, careful material selection, and precise execution.

At Marjanović Sewing Systems, we work closely with our clients to ensure their seams—and their products—are built to last. If you’re working on applications where failure is not an option, we’re here to help.

 
 
 

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Tel 1. +381 63 1818 418

Tel 2. +381 63 514 763

info@marjanovic-sewing-systems.com

Međunarodni put 31 
21233 Čenej, Serbia

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